Perhaps Stage 2- Click to enlarge
My Comments: This is an excellent article.
Why haven’t pet owners been told all the facts.
The American Heartworm Society has three “platinum†sponsors and five “bronze†sponsors. All eight are major pharmaceutical manufacturers.
It comes as no surprise, then, that the AHS recommends year-round, birth-to-death heartworm prevention drugs – no matter where you live, the time of year, the age of your dog, his size or health status.
What’s Wrong with This Picture?
Huge conflict of interest potential.
Relatively low actual incidence of life-threatening infection.
The existence of less toxic recommendations.
Read More on this here: by Dr. Becker at Mercola.com
By Frank Will Platinum Quality Author
Frank Will
I am an avid lover of pets and my wife and I have had several pets throughout our years. We are especially fond of dogs, …
Article Word Count: 960 [View Summary] Comments (0)
Protein Losing Enteropathy in Dogs, also referred to as PLE, is a condition in which dogs will have a variety of intestinal diseases that are directly associated with hypoproteinemia, or low protein levels which is caused by a loss, a leakage, or a failure to absorb protein in their stomach.
It can in some cases, be the kiss of death for your dog, it is that serious.
This life threatening condition in dogs can be controlled in some cases with a specific diet as well as with pharmacologic therapy, and if controlled, the chances of your dog surviving are fair to good in some cases, while the more severe cases will most likely cause the death of your dog.
In severe cases, some dogs may not respond to any type of therapy, or relapse quite suddenly after initial treatment, and pass as a result of worsening conditions or other complications.
It is extremely important to note that this is a very, very difficult disease to properly diagnose by your veterinarian, as they must exclude non-intestinal causes of the low protein levels that may be specifically related to the kidneys or the liver.
Hypoproteinemia, or low protein levels, is a condition where there are low levels of protein in the blood and usually indicate that there is an inadequate diet of protein or an intestinal or renal disorder that is preventing protein from entering into your dog’s system.
The driving force behind your dog losing protein in PLE may be related to either inflammation or erosion causes that are affecting the normal functions of the stomach, or may be caused by some type of a congenital problem or vascular drainage problems.
via Protein Losing Enteropathy in Dogs.
Listen as Dr. Karen Becker discusses the frightening condition of seizures in pets – what to look for, what can cause the disorder, and what to do if your own pet suddenly has a seizure.  This is lots of excellent information, which has a down loadable transcript as well as a video, on seizures.
Julia Medew
January 6, 2011
DOCTORS are urging people to keep their pets clean after discovering Australia’s first case of a potentially fatal disease transmitted by cat fleas to humans.
A team of doctors reported the discovery of cat-flea typhus in the Medical Journal of Australia this week after they carried out a lengthy investigation similar to those featured in the hit television series House.
Dr Julian Kelly, a paediatrician at the Royal Children’s Hospital in Melbourne, said the journey began when a nine-year-old girl was admitted to the hospital in April 2009 with a fever and rash that could not be easily diagnosed.
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She was admitted to the intensive care unit three days later when the infection caused her lungs to fill with fluid.
During her stay, three other members of her family fell sick with the mysterious illness, which was later diagnosed as cat-flea typhus, also known as Rickettsia felis.
While blood tests pointed to the uncommon disease group for the patients while they were in hospital, it took about four months for researchers from a specialist laboratory to track down where the disease came from.
â€The family had about 10 different types of animals at their home, they had pigs, rats, mice, cats, ducks, and they lived next door to a swamp, so it was very difficult to work out where it would be,†Dr Kelly said.
However, when doctors realised all of the patients had been in contact with flea-infested kittens, they followed the lead and discovered the kittens’ family, which was living on another property, carried fleas with the disease.
â€It was quite an entertaining case … It’s taken about 18 months to get to the point of publishing it in the medical journal,†Dr Kelly said.
He said all of the patients recovered from the illness, which kills about 2 per cent of those infected. Although the bug was rare, its presence in Australia should encourage people to keep their animals clean, he said.
â€Make sure you de-flea your cat when you get one. I think that’s the take-home message.â€
Australian Rickettsial Reference Laboratory director Dr Stephen Graves said that although the disease had been found in cat and dog fleas in Western Australia, it had never been found in humans in Australia. He said people could get the disease if an infected flea bit them, because when fleas bite they defecate the disease from their intestines.
â€If the person scratches after being bitten, the flea’s faeces get inoculated into the bite site,†he said. Dr Graves said the disease could cause people to experience symptoms including a fever and rash and could be treated with antibiotics.
Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/national/deadly-catflea-disease-hits-australia-20110105-19g8p.html#ixzz1jMcvxiRI
Julia Medew
January 6, 2011
DOCTORS are urging people to keep their pets clean after discovering Australia’s first case of a potentially fatal disease transmitted by cat fleas to humans.
A team of doctors reported the discovery of cat-flea typhus in the Medical Journal of Australia this week after they carried out a lengthy investigation similar to those featured in the hit television series House.
Dr Julian Kelly, a pediatrician at the Royal Children’s Hospital in Melbourne, said the journey began when a nine-year-old girl was admitted to the hospital in April 2009 with a fever and rash that could not be easily diagnosed.
READ FULL – Deadly cat-flea disease hits Australia.
This is great info on Staining.
http://www.dogs4dogs.com/Tear%20Stains.html
Feline acne, sometimes referred to as “chin acne†or “kitty acne,†is a skin condition that affects cats of any age, sex, or breed. This infection is nothing like human acne, in that it’s not linked to adolescence or hormones. Feline acne presents itself with the formation of blackheads (called comedomes) on the chin of the cat. In more severe cases, the blackheads may become infected and burst open. Some cats also may experience redness, itchy bumps, whiteheads, and swelling.
http://www.petfooddirect.com/blog/2010/11/what-is-feline-acne/
New York Dog Tests Positive for H1N1
Mixed-breed dog tested positive for H1N1 virus but is recovering after hospitalization.
Posted: December 22, 2009, 5 a.m. EST
A 13-year-old male mixed-breed dog has tested positive for the 2009 H1N1 influenza virus, the first known reported U.S. case, according to Idexx Reference Laboratories. The Westbrook, Maine-based company, which recently launched its H1N1 Influenza Virus RealPCR Test, made the announcement Monday.
The canine sample was submitted to Idexx by the Katonah Bedford Veterinary Center in Bedford Hills, N.Y., earlier this month. The sample tested positive for H1N1. The result was later independently verified by Iowa State University Veterinary Diagnostics Laboratory.
READ FULL ARTICLE
http://www.dogchannel.com/dog-news/2009/12/22/new-york-dog-tests-positive-for-h1n1.aspx
YOU WANT FOOD GRADE.…………   POOL GRADE DE IS POISONOUS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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What is Diatomaceous Earth?
Diatomaceous earth is a remarkable, all-natural product made from tiny fossilized water plants. Diatomaceous Earth is a naturally occurring siliceous sedimentary mineral compound from microscopic skeletal remains of unicellular algae-like plants called diatoms. These plants have been part of the earth’s ecology since prehistoric times. 30 million years ago the diatoms built up into deep, chalky deposits of diatomite. The diatoms are mined and ground up to render a powder that looks and feels like talcum powder to us. It is a mineral based pesticide. DE is approximately 3% magnesium, 33% silicon, 19% calcium, 5% sodium, 2% iron and many other trace minerals such as titanium, boron, manganese, copper and zirconium. Diatomaceous Earth is a natural (not calcined or flux calcined) compound. Diatomaceous Earth is a natural grade diatomite. However, the continual breathing of any dust should he absolutely avoided.
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]This DE is not the same thing as the DE used in swimming pool filters. Pool grade DE is Diatomaceous Earth produced for pool filters and it is treated with heat, causing the formerly amorphous silicon dioxide to assume crystalline form. Pool grade DE should never be used for pest control. Swimming pool DE ranges from 60% to 70% free silica!
Natural Diatomaceous Earth (DE) is the remains of microscopic one-celled plants (phytoplankton) called diatoms that lived in the oceans and lakes that once covered the western part of the US and other parts of the world. These deposits are mined from underwater beds or from ancient dried lake bottoms.
Diatomaceous earth is mined, milled, and processed into a myriad of types for a large variety of uses. Filtering and filler are two main uses but diatomaceous earth also ends up in paints, cosmetics, drugs, chemical insecticides, etc. Because the milling produces different sized and shaped particles, it is important not to use the filtering type for agricultural purposes.
Pool filter grade diatomaceous earth has been heat and chemically treated and will poison an animal or human who ingests it, so it is always of utmost importance to only obtain food grade diatomaceous earth to use in and around your household.
Diatoms (DE) are the grass of the oceans and lakes. Just as grass is the staple food of earth animals. Diatoms (algae) are the food of the ocean or fresh water grazers. Magnified 7000x, diatomaceous earth looks like spiney honeycombs.
Food grade diatomaceous earth is EPA approved to be mixed with grains to control mealworms and other pests and has been exempted from tolerance requirements as an inert, inactive ingredient in chemical pesticides. Diatomaceous earth is EPA approved against indoor and outdoor crawling insects. Diatomaceous earth is USDA approved as an anti-caking agent for animal feed. Diatomaceous earth is FDA approved for internal and external use and has a rating of Food Chemical Codex Grade.
DISCLAIMER: Any uses other than those approved by the EPA, FDA, or USDA are strictly reports of what farmers, others, and we ourselves have done with diatomaceous earth. Additionally, the following material is not intended as a substitute for the advice of a physician or vet. This information is not intended as a substitute for the reader’s independent judgment and personal responsibility. Health issues are far too important to delegate to anyone else. It is highly recommended you seek information and counsel from as wide a variety of sources as possible, as in the end YOU make the decisions.
Our diatomaceous earth is Codex Food Chemical Grade. It is a non-treated, non-milled, non-calcined fresh water form of Diatomaceous Earth and is pure white in color. There are food grade diatomaceous earth products that are yellow or tan in color which indicates a higher iron content. Those which are gray in color contain more clay.
INTERNAL PARASITE CONTROL: Food grade diatomaceous earth makes a very effective natural insecticide. The insecticidal quality of diatomaceous earth is due to the razor sharp edges of the diatom remains. When diatomaceous earth comes in contact with the insects, the sharp edges lacerate the bugs waxy exoskeleton and then the powdery diatomaceous earth absorbs the body fluids causing death from dehydration.
Food grade diatomaceous earth has been used for at least two decades as a natural wormer for livestock. Some believe diatomaceous earth scratches and dehydrates parasites. Some scientists believe that diatomaceous earth is a de-ionizer or de-energizer of worms or parasites. Regardless, people report definite control. To be most effective, food grade diatomaceous earth must be fed long enough to catch all newly hatching eggs or cycling of the worms through the lungs and back to the stomach. A minimum of 60 days is suggested by many, 90 days is advised for lungworms.
Food grade diatomaceous earth works in a purely physical/mechanical manner, not ‘chemical’ and thus has no chemical toxicity. Best yet, parasites don’t build up a tolerance/immunity to its chemical reaction, so rotation of wormers unnecessary.
*CLINICAL OBSERVATIONS OF FEEDING CODEX FOOD GRADE DIATOMACEOUS EARTH TO DOGS, O.C. Collins, DVM, Midland Animal Clinic And Hospital, Midland, TX:“In clinical observations of feeding dogs over 35 lbs. 1 tbsp./day and under 35 lbs. 1 tsp./day of DE, within seven days all ova disappeared from stools. DE controlled Ascardis (Toxacara canids), Hookworms (Anclyostoma caninum), and Whipworms (Trichuris vulipis).â€
*RESULTS ON FEEDING CODEX FOOD GRADE DIATOMACEOUS EARTH TO WALKING HORSE, L. Thomas, Trainer, L. Frank Roper Stables, Winter Garden, FL: “With horses fed approximately 5 oz. of DE mixed in the feed twice daily, the following results were observed: Stopped scours even on horses that had not responded to any other medications. Noticeable fly reduction. Horses showed an increase in appetites. Weight gain due to better feed conversion. Reduction in manure odor. Elimination of any internal parasites. Healthier appearance.
Daily recommended food grade diatomaceous earth feeding rates:
Kittens – 1/2 teaspoon
Cats – 1 teaspoon
Puppies – 1/2 to 1 tsp.
Dogs under 35 lbs. – 1 teaspoon
Dogs over 35 lbs. – 1 tablespoon
Dogs over 100 lbs. – 2 tablespoons
Cattle, Dairy Cows, & Hogs – 2% of dry feed ration
Chickens – 5% in feed
Goats & Sheep – 1% in grain
Horses – 1/2-1 cup in daily ration
*Humans – 1 heaping tablespoon daily
Internal feeding of food grade diatomaceous earth helps eliminate most internal worms, though possibly not all. It’s also excellent when fed daily to keep down fly loads, since food grade diatomaceous earth is eliminated from the body, exactly the way it went in, it helps reduce the manure odor and kills flies that come in contact with it.
Mix in animal feed or grain and/or feed free choice. Our goats, fowl, and dogs eat it free choice.
*Some recommend to dose humans by mixing food grade diatomaceous earth in a glass of water before bed or first thing in the morning, well before breakfast, to allow diatomaceous earth time to move through and absorb toxins from one’s digestive tract without interfering or absorbing nutrients from foods or liquids. Some report great results consuming 1 tsp. in a glass of water prior to each meal, 3x/day.
EXTERNAL APPLICATIONS FOR DOGS & CATS: Lightly rub food grade diatomaceous earth into pets coat, fur, and bedding to dehydrate fleas, lice, mites, and ticks. Dust them lightly, but thoroughly, as in order to kill the parasites, they must come in contact with the DE. Note, external application can take up to 72 hours to dehydrate external parasites.
Lightly sprinkle in household carpet. Leave for 2-3+ days, then vacuum. Please do not get heavy handed with the DE in your carpet, as I have heard from some people advising it causes problems with their vacuum.
EXTERNAL APPLICATIONS FOR LIVESTOCK, BARNS, COOPS, KENNELS, LITTER BOXES: We use DE throughout the barn, fowl coops, and pastures. When mucking the barn and coops, I lightly, but thoroughly sprinkle diatomaceous earth absolutely everywhere! It keeps the kidding barn “cleansed†and dry. In between barn mucking, I sprinkle diatomaceous earth on wet spots to help dry them out and keep flies from laying eggs.
Food grade diatomaceous earth is excellent in the fowl coops – on the ground, in nesting/dusting boxes to prevent lice and mites. Sprinkle directly on fowl feathers to eliminate mites and lice. One application of diatomaceous earth has their feathers growing back quickly.
Food grade diatomaceous earth applied to manure piles keeps fly loads down/eliminated.
Dairy cow owners put food grade diatomaceous earth in burlap bags, so cows can rub against it and sprinkle themselves with DE, which helps to eliminate flies, that land on them, as well as lice and mites.
Apply to moist kennel areas to reduce odors, dry the area, and prevent pest breeding.
Deodorizing and absorption are natural functions of diatomaceous earth, so add to kitty litter to absorb odors and keep the litter box drier.
A small amount of food grade DE applied to livestock waterers keeps algae from growing on hot summer days.
Food grade diatomaceous earth is great for compost piles, to prevent breeding pests and control odors.
YARD, GARDEN, & LANDSCAPE APPLICATIONS: DE’s minerals are great for the yard and gardens.
Apply DE to ant hills. Small ants may require a few applications to completely eliminate them, as they burrow new hills elsewhere, when we plug their initial hill with DE, but if we keep at it, eventually they disappear. Big ants are eliminated within two applications of a reasonable amount of DE applied to their ant hill. Ants in trash cans can be controlled by either painting DE around the bottom of the trash can or sprinkling it dry around it. They’ll go elsewhere, as they do not like walking over DE, so you’ll need to find their home to completely eliminate them, but it will keep them away from areas you put DE. Sprinkled around the house foundation keeps new crawling insects from coming inside.
We mix food grade diatomaceous earth with water to paint our fruit tree trunks with it, like a white wash. The DE keeps ants OFF our fruit trees. 1 cup applied to ½ gallon of water works well. Good as a white wash for wood fencing too.
1 to 2 cups per gallon of water can be used to apply diatomaceous earth in a backpack or hose end sprayer for problem infestations of mites, aphids, fungus problems, etc. Food grade diatomaceous earth will turn whatever you paint or spray with it white – so it may look like a “white†winter at your place.
OUTDOOR BUGS AFFECTED BY DIATOMACEOUS EARTH: Ants, fire ants, caterpillars, cut worms, army worms, fleas, ticks, cockroaches, snails, spiders, termites, scorpions, silver fish, lice, mites, flies, centipedes, earwigs, slugs, aphids, Japanese beetles (grub stage), fruit flies, corn earworm, cucumber beetles, corn borer, sting bugs, squash vine borers, thrips, loopers, etc., etc.
MINERALIZATION: Natural food grade diatomaceous earth contains 15 trace minerals: calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium, copper, zinc iron, phosphorous, selenium, etc. People note shinier coats, better overall health, better production, etc. in their animals who are fed food grade diatomaceous earth regularly.
FLY CONTROL: Used regularly, DE has pretty much eliminated our fly population here. Sprinkle DE on livestock when flies are present. Dust barns, coops, after mucking and throw on top of manure/compost piles. DE is our only fly preventative. We no longer use or need fly bags, fly predators/parasites, fly tapes, or sprays.
Farmers keep hanging burlap bags full of diatomaceous earth for the cattle to rub against and keep themselves dusted, which eliminates flies that land on them.
Diatomaceous earth can be put in a backpack sprayer mixed with water to spray your barn or coop buildings. Reapply DE when rain or water washes or wind blows it away.
GRAIN STORAGE & PROTECTION: Codex food grade diatomaceous earth is a healthy non-toxic alternative to chemical contamination of stored grain. When the grain is to be used, food grade diatomaceous earth can be easily removed, but need not be. Since it is “food gradeâ€, makes no difference in taste or cooking quality, and adds 15 trace minerals. Suggested grain storage use: 1 cup of DE will protect 50 #’s of grain — 5 cups of food grade diatomaceous earth will protect 300 #’s of grain — 7 lbs. of DE will protect 1500 #’s of grain or seeds. One source advises only 1 to 2 #’s of DE per ton of grain.
A study done by ACRES, USA, Inc. advised that after 12 months of storage, the food grade diatomaceous earth treated material had 15 insects, compared to 4884 for malathion and 16,994 for untreated grain.
MORE DIATOMACEOUS EARTH BENEFITS: Food grade diatomaceous earth has been reported in scientific literature to absorb methyl mercury, e-coli, endotoxins, viruses (including poliovirus), organophosphate pesticide residues, drug resides, and protein, perhaps even the proteinaceous toxins produced by some intestinal infections. Food grade diatomaceous earth detoxes.
There are some features about food grade diatomaceous earth that correspond with its ability as both a digestive aid and a colon cleanser. The honeycomb skeletal form of diatomaceous earth is found, under microscopic evaluation to reveal a tendency to become filled and clogged with hard debris such as intestinal scale. Food grade diatomaceous earth has not been found to cause any insult to the mucousa or barrier wall.
Diatomaceous earth has a negative charge and bacteria has a positive charge, wherein it is believed by some that food grade diatomaceous earth sweeps bacteria out of the body by trapping it in it’s honeycomb shaped skeletal form.
There is no withdrawal period when given to milking or feed animals. No toxins. Decreased mortality, increased milk production, decreased mastitis, better feed conversion.
CAUTIONS:
· DE manufacturers who work in diatomaceous earth mines 5 days/week advise inhaling it is not a problem (tho of course, don’t be snuffing it) and we have not had problems when inhaling DE in small amounts. IF you have asthma or some other lung ailment, either wear a mask or be very careful when using food grade diatomaceous earth.
· Do NOT get diatomaceous earth in the eyes. DE is drying to the eyes, so do NOT put it out when you or your pets are down wind of it. DE is drying to your skin, hands, and feet, just as it can be to your pets.
· Do NOT give to very small pregnant animals such as cats, guinea pigs, etc. and do NOT feed continually to babies or small animals such as cats, hamsters, etc. DE can be fed on a continuous basis to larger animals and livestock for continuous parasite control and mineralization.
· Do NOT use heavily in carpet. Some advise too much DE causes vacuum problems.
· NEVER use pool filter grade DE around animals. It can poison or kill them.
· Some people experience a healing crisis (detox reaction) when beginning DE consumption. If this occurs, reduce the dose, till your body is cleansed, and then increase to the RDA.
· Remember, DE will kill beneficial insects as well, so use accordingly.
FOOD GRADE DIATOMACEOUS EARTH BENEFITS SUMMARY:
· Natural wormer – eliminates many parasites without chemicals
· Safe, non-toxic, parasites don’t build immunity as they do with traditional wormers
· 15 trace minerals – great for animals, humans, plants, and soil
· No feed withdrawal for milk or feed animals
· Decreased mastitis
· Reduced scours
· Decreased mortality
· Better feed conversion
· Helps detox heavy metals, ecoli, bacteria, viruses, etc.
· Promotes shinier coats
· Digestive aid
· Colon cleanser
· Better production
· Better overall health
· Eliminates pests in stored grains
· Reduces flies, fleas, ticks, etc.
· Reduces manure odor
· Drying agent
· Reduces moisture and pests in barns, coops, kennel, litterboxes, compost piles, and other moist areas
· Antifungal properties – good for garden fungal growth
· Reduces overall animal stress
· Cost effective
· DE health benefits mean reduction in vet bills and dis-ease
MORE LINKS TO MORE INFORMATION
http://www.biconet.com/crawlers/infosheets/DEarticle1.htm
http://www.onlynaturalpet.com/products/Fleabusters-Rx-for-Fleas-Plus/154001.aspx
Pesticides in Pet Products: Why Your Dog or Cat May Be at Risk
Pets and Pesticides: Let’s Be Careful Out There
Are Over-the-Counter Flea-and-Tick Treatments Really Safe for Dogs and Cats?
By M.B. Pell and Jillian Olsen | December 16, 2008
Last June Diane Bromenschenkel applied a flea-and-tick product to her English pointer, Wings, so the dog wouldn’t get ticks while hunting pheasant in the tall grasslands of western Idaho. Wings, a healthy five-year-old with a sleek white coat and a chocolate brown mask, enjoyed long walks in the woods, bacon treats, and burying things in the yard. But three months after the pesticide was applied, the animal was dead.
Read more : http://www.publicintegrity.org/investigations/pesticides/
CAUTION! Intestinal parasites of dogs and cats are potential health hazards for humans, too. If hookworm larvae penetrate the skin they can cause “cutaneous larval migransâ€, a potentially serious and scarring inflammation results. Ascarid (roundworm) eggs if ingested can cause a disease called “visceral larval migrans†where tiny worm larvae migrate through the person’s intestinal wall and into the body tissues. They then grow to larger size almost anywhere in the body. Ocular disease is a common sequel “visceral larval migransâ€. Children are at most serious risk especially if play behavior is in an environment where dog, cat, or raccoon feces may be present… such as in a sandbox. A single adult Toxicara canis female can shed up to 100,000 eggs a day which pass into the dog or cat’s environment with the stool. Please take the worming advice of your veterinarian seriously and adhere to strict sanitation principles whenever pets and children are in close contact. Note… roundworms are not spread to people simply by close contact with dogs or cats. The individual must ingest (eat!) the infective stage of the roundworm eggs; since the eggs are primarily associated with feces, humans would somehow need to consume the egg contaminated feces for contagion to occur. To learn more about parasites of man and animals look at the Centers For Disease Control site at cdc.gov. If you search for “Prevention of Zoonotic Transmission of Ascarids and Hookworms of Dogs and Cats†you can see information about roundworm and hookworm hazards for humans.<SNIP>
<SNIP> Read Full article and see many photos here: http://www.thepetcenter.com/exa/worms.html
A great link for Information on Heart worm is here : http://www.thepetcenter.com/gen/hw.html
These answers and statements are from a licensed Veterinarian, (un-related to the above linked site) and is not meant to replace advice from your own private veterinarian.
STATEMENT: To get heartworm disease, your dog needs 2 things: mosquitoes (and I saw some here during that 50 degree day we had last week) and a source of heartworm microfilaria (babies), that would be a dog, coyote, wolf, cat and possibly others. (Humans get the disease, too, but it is extremely rare).
If your dog goes out at dusk, dawn, and with some mosquitoes, anytime, the chance of being bitten exists. If you live where everyone else’s dogs are on preventative, yours is safer, but the wildlife issue still exists. Like most things in life, educate yourself and make the best choice you can, even if it’s the lesser of 2 evils…. Adult heartworms live in the heart (duh<VBG>). when they reproduce, they have microfilaria (babies) these circulate in the bloodstream, and the microfilaria are sucked up by the mosquito when it bites the dog.
The mosquito then moves on the next dog (yours) and ‘injects’ the microfilaria when it bites your dog. That is how the disease is spread. SO, if there are no dogs around with microfilaria in their bloodstreams (i.e. negative dogs /dogs on HW preventative) there is no place the mosquito can suck up microfilaria to give to your dog, except for the aforementioned wildlife…
It is a blood borne and blood transmitted disease. Yours could live with a positive dog forever and not catch the disease, if there are no mosquitoes to transmit it. (called a vector)
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STATEMENT: FYI, the oral forms (Interceptor and Heartgard/Heartgard plus) DO NOT stay in the dog’s bloodstream constantly. It is a retroactive drug: i.e. it kills what is there and then is cleared from the body in approx. 48 hrs. until the next dose. The 30 day dosing is due to the length of the life cycle stage ( of the heartworm) that the drug kills.
Depending on where you live, apparently, the temps have to stay a certain temp for a certain amount of days for the larva/eggs to hatch (or something like that.) There is a really good website out there but I can’t remember what it is right now. Personally, I keep my dogs on heartworm meds year round but I only give it every 7 weeks.
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STATEMENT: 7 weeks is pushing your luck though. The (I think it’s the) 5th larval stage is 45 days. So at 7 weeks you may occasionally miss some and that’s enough to get the disease.
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QUESTION: I’ve heard the orals are good for 45 days, not 30 – is that not true then?
ANSWER: 45 days is the limit. I test every 3-4 years, BUT I KNOW he eats the pill every month. If the dog is off it in the winter, I’d test every year. Another reason I give it all year round, plus easier for me to remember…
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QUESTION: We stopped giving our dogs heartguard a few months ago. Is it safe to just start up again without getting a whole new heartworm test done?
ANSWER:The only time you don’t have to retest before starting meds is when you give them year around. But even then you have to retest every 3 years. The heart worm preventative can be extremely harmful to a dog if it has heartworms.
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QUESTION: Because my dog gets diarrhea “every time†he get his heart worm meds, the doctor mentioned the shot! What is your opinion of that?
ANSWER: The shot was pulled from the market last year. I would not use it because with a pill, if there is a bad reaction, the medication is out of the body in 48 hrs. With the shot, it stays for 6 months, and once it’s injected you can’t get it out..
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STATEMENT: The life cycle of the heartworm is complicated, about 5 or 6 stages. The heartworm meds work on 1 particular stage that lasts about 45 days before changing to the next stage (that the meds doesn’t kill). It takes a variable length of time from inoculation (mosquito bite) to infection. Thus the regime of once monthly meds. Depending on the chance of infection, would decide if you choose to use the meds at all or year round or what. “I†think the stuff is reasonably safe, and I live in a heartworm endemic area with (in my opinion) nearly nonexistent winters. I use it all year round.
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STATEMENT: They don’t generally die from the medication to treat heartworm disease anymore. (still an arsenical but not as toxic). The biggest problem is if you don’t keep them quiet, the dying heartworms can break off in clumps and form clots in the lungs which can (and often does) kill the dog. This is the reason for the cage rest/leash walk part of the aftercare..
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QUESTION: Which brand is it that protects against other worms as well as heartworms?
ANSWER:
INTERCEPTOR:indicated for the prevention of heartworm (Dirofilaria immitis) disease and the treatment and control of roundworms (Toxocara canis, Toxascaris leonina), hookworms (Ancylostoma caninum) and whipworms (Trichuris vulpis) in dogs.
IVERHART PLUS CHEWABLES: Vermectin/Pyrantel chewables. Once a month control of heartworms, roundworms and hookworms for dogs.
HEARTGARD PLUS:Kills the immature form of the heartworm (Dirofilaria immitis). It is also used for the treatment and control of hookworms (Ancylostoma caninum, A. braziliense, and Uncinaria stenocephala) and roundworms (ascarids – Toxocara canis, Toxascaris leonina).
SENTINEL: Lufenuron and milbemycin are used to control heartworms, fleas and several common internal parasites including roundworms, hookworms and some whipworms.
REVOLUTION: In dogs, selamectin is used to treat and control fleas, ticks, ear mites and a certain type of mange (Sarcoptes). It is also used to prevent heartworm infection.
WOLBACHIA-
Recent research has led to the discovery of a parasite called Wolbachia that lives symbiotically inside heartworms.
Studies indicate that this parasite contributes to the adverse effects of both heartworm infection and heartworm treatment, including inflammation,
embolism and allergic reaction.
Treatment with doxycycline for 30 days to kill the Wolbachia parasite weakens the heartworms and makes them unable to reproduce, and greatly
reduces the chance of adverse reaction during heartworm treatment.
Any dog that currently has heartworms should be treated with doxycycline for 30 days. If the dog will be treated with Immiticide (fast-kill method), it
is best to treat with doxycycline prior to beginning Immiticide treatment, as this should make the treatment much safer, by greatly reducing the
potential for embolism and allergic reaction to the death of the worms. If anyone has dogs currently undergoing treatment with Immiticide, I would
still give doxycycline, as even concurrent treatment may have some benefit.
Doxycycline should also be given to dogs that are being treated with monthly Heartgard (slow kill method) or any type of alternative heartworm
treatment method, as it will weaken the heartworms, prevent them from reproducing, and reduce the chance of adverse effects caused by the heartworm infection
itself, and by the worms dying.
It appears unlikely that the Wolbachia parasite persists in the body after the heartworms have been cleared, though we do not know for certain at
this time. To be safe, it may be best to treat any dogs that have completed heartworm treatment in the past with doxycycline for 30 days, to clear any
possible remaining Wolbachia.
I was unable to find any information on the recommended dosage of doxycycline in dogs. Because Wolbachia is a rickettsial organism, similar to
those that cause tick disease, it may be advisable to use the higher dose of doxycycline that is recommended for treatment of tick disease, which is 10
mg/kg twice a day.
Veterinarians may contact Merial, the manufacturer of Immiticide, for more information on this topic, if needed.
Here is some additional info on the topic that I was able to find, though most of it is highly technical and still in preliminary stages of research:
http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=610
“Wolbachia is a genus of rickettsial organisms (sort of like bacteria, but not exactly). They live inside the adult heartworm.
These organisms seem to be protective or beneficial to heartworms and treating the dog with the antibiotic doxycycline seems to sterilize female heartworms (meaning they cannot reproduce).
Wolbachia is also thought to be involved in the embolism and shock that result when heartworms die. The role of this organism is still being investigated.
If your veterinarian wants to pre-treat your heartworm positive dog with doxycycline, it may be because of concerns regarding this organism. As new
information emerges, we will post here.â€
http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/~blagbbl/Blagburnheskasymposium.pdf
“Wolbachia are intracellular bacteria that infect numerous species of filarial worms including heartworms. Many contend that these friendly inhabitants (endosymbionts) play a role in the pathogenesis of diseases caused by heartworms and other filarids. Contention is that host immune responses directed at Wolbachia can actually go awry and enhance the disease process in heartworm infections. Some also contend that elimination of Wolbachia spp. from heartworms may affect the survival of adult heartworms and may decrease the host’s errant immunologic responses when adult worms are killed or die.â€
http://www.vin.com/proceedings/Proceedings.plxCID=WSAVA2005&PID=10906&O=Generic
“Dirofilaria immitis [heartworms] the cause of heartworm disease in dogs and cats harbours an endosymbiont intracellular bacteria of the genus
Wolbachia (a Rickettsia). Studies performed recently indicate that these bacteria may play an important role in the pathogenesis and immune response to filarial
infection (Bandi et al, 2001).†This article goes on to say that Wolbachia may contribute to many of the side effects of heartworm disease, including inflammation, kidney disease, lung problems and allergic reactions.
http://www.vin.com/proceedings/Proceedings.plxCID=WSAVA2005&PID=10907&O=Generic
“Furthermore, preliminary data from our laboratory indicates that antibiotic treatment before adulticide therapy in dogs with heartworm disease leads to
a decrease in pro-inflammatory cytokines, particularly IL-8.â€
http://lib.bioinfo.pl/meid:13044
This site has numerous other studies on human treatment, indicating that doxycycline, oxytetracycline (of which doxycycline is a derivative) and rifampicin (sometimes use in conjunction with doxycycline) are all effective against Wolbachia.
http://www.pnas.org/cgi/content/full/94/21/11154
“Bacterial relatives of Wolbachia include a number of agents that have arthropods as vectors and cause serious human diseases such as typhus, scrub
typhus, erhlichiosis, and Rocky Mountain spotted fever. Studies of these bacteria require special containment facilities. In contrast, Wolbachia have
so far been found only in invertebrates and are not known to cause mammalian disease.â€
***
response to post of the above on local rescue list:
***
We have been following this protocol for a few months now, after speaking with Dr. Nelson, the Prez of the American Heartworm Society.
We are not only giving them the Doxy 30 days in advance (or as much time as possible), but continuing them on the Doxy throughout the treatment.
Believe me, there is a marked difference in the health of the dogs. I currently have three high-risk dogs undergoing treatment, and they are
showing virtually no adverse side effects from the treatment! It is incredible to think that a parasite such as heartworms, actually have
parasites themselves. How wild is that! And to think that those parasites contribute to the adverse reactions, and sometimes death, in
heartworm-treated dogs – well, it just boggles the mind!!! But I am now a huge proponent of the Doxy protocol – we are ordering it by the case!!!
***
currently trying to find out if there are any beneficial effects to giving doxy post hw treatment.
I am sure many vets know about this, but not all. And it never hurts any of us to be further educated on this terrible infection/disease.â€
Dogs, Cats, Osteosarcoma, Dysplasia and Pet Food Fluoride
by George Glasser, NPWA Bulletin
The recent cover-up scandal about osteosarcoma and drinking water fluoridation brought to mind research I had done several years ago into canine osteosarcoma which is fairly common among certain breeds of dogs and cats.
Because of the association between osteosarcoma and drinking water fluoridation, I contacted people whose dogs developed the cancer to see if they lived in fluoridated areas, but there was not even a credible anecdotal connection. It appeared to be a universal problem. I dropped the investigation until the new flap came up about fluoride and osteosarcoma and I decided to take a fresh look at the issue again.
Osteosarcoma is the most common bone cancer in humans, cats and dogs. Osteosarcoma mostly occurs in male humans, dogs and cats. In dogs, the disease is more frequently seen in larger breeds such as rottweilers, greyhounds, golden retrievers, etc. Recent studies have also shown that osteosarcoma is also more common in taller people.
Osteosarcoma accounts for 85% of all primary bone tumours in dogs, and in the US – 8,000-10,000 dogs per year in U.S develop osteosarcoma.
In cats, osteosarcoma accounts for 70% of primary bone tumours.
In humans, about 5 children out of a million develop osteosarcoma each year. Osteosarcoma accounts for five percent of all primary bone tumors in children.
Osteosarcoma is the most common type of bone cancer/tumors seen in humans, dogs and cats.
CONNECTING THE DOTS:
If fluoride were possibly a factor – how did the animals get a sufficient dose in their diet? My research suggested that it was arbitrary and not associated with drinking water fluoridation, if fluoride were a factor. The only other possibility was in their food.
It took nothing more than an Internet search using “fluoride content + dog food†and there it was:
A low-fluoride commercial dog food contains 40 – 60 parts per million of fluoride. A high-fluoride dog food can contain up to 460 parts per million of fluoride (Marks TA, J Toxicol Environ Health. 1984;14(5-6):707-14).
“A 1971 study at the University of Montana found the average level of fluoride in leading pet foods to be 11 to 193 ppm, with the highest found in canned pet food. If your dog weighs 100 pounds this translates to a daily consumption of 21 to 368 milligrams of fluoride from commercial food.
The government upper daily limit of 2.5 milligrams of fluoride is said to be safe for children over three years of age. The Montana researchers found that fluoride accumulates in pet’s bones. 84 to 1535 milligrams of fluoride was found in dog’s leg bones. 74 to 1,190 milligrams was found in the bones of cats, and it increased with age.†http://www.leaflady.org/pethealth.htm.
Investigating further, some lower grade dog foods may contain even more – up to 2,000 parts per million of fluoride.
Interestingly, the only study I could find about dogs, osteosarcoma and fluoride was one where they were investigating fluoridated drinking water – Apparently, the researchers, not realising that dogs may already be consuming several hundred milligrams of fluoride per day in their food; tens – hundreds of times more that the recommended dose for humans of 1.0 milligram per day.
While there are fairly strict regulations about how much fluoride can be in the food of farm animals, the guidelines for pet foods are fluid. I could find no research for “safe fluoride levels†for cats and dogs.
There is no fluoride intake criteria for pet dogs and cats – it is all based on ASSUMPTION and not science.
The reason that pets and dietary fluoride intake have been totally neglected is that pets do not represent an agricultural cash commodity.
For instance, daily fluoride intake for breeding farm animals and dairy cows are lower than for animals raised for slaughter. The reason for this is high levels of fluoride can interfere with reproduction, milk production and the general health of the breeding stock/dairy cows.
“Safe levels of fluoride in the diet dry matter for finishing [slaughter] cattle are no more than 100 ppm (0.01 percent) and to more than 40 ppm (0.004 percent) for animals to be kept in the breeding herd.†http://muextension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/ansci/g02081.htm
“Tolerance levels have been identified for domesticated animals, with the lowest values for dairy cattle at 30 mg/kg feed or 2.5 mg/litre drinking-water. . . Symptoms of fluoride toxicity include emaciation, stiffness of joints and abnormal teeth and bones. Other effects include lowered milk production and detrimental effects on the reproductive capacity of animals.†http://www.inchem.org/documents/ehc/ehc/ehc227.htm
It seems that pets fall into the lower end of the ‘safe limit’ priorities along with farm animals bred for slaughter – all regulations for levels of undesirable constituents of mineral supplements were developed with commercial agricultural ends in mind – profitability and cost saving for the farmer or rancher.
Unfortunately, pets are not considered an agricultural commodity and the agricultural standards are simply accepted without reservation by veterinarians for all animals. They do not factor in the fact that pets are pets and their owners are fond of them, and people want to keep them alive and healthy for as long as possible. People’s pets are not just nameless cash producing commodities that either go to slaughter or are put-down when they no longer can produce milk or offspring.
While, volumes of research has been done on pigs, sheep goats, chickens and cattle with regard to adverse health effects from fluoride, there is very little information about pets such as dogs and cats. Consequently, it is safe to assume that many of dogs and cats who appear to be suffering with arthritis, dysplasia, spinal deformities, etc. may have actually developed skeletal fluorosis. The veterinarians don’t have a clue that fluorosis might be the problem.
It appears that most veterinarians are completely unaware of the fact that there are cat and dog foods contain high fluoride levels and the physical problems that it can cause your pet dog or cat.
Researchers are looking at many of the health problems as genetic aberrations rather than toxicant related conditions such as skeletal fluorosis from high levels of fluoride contained in pet foods. While a particular breed may be genetically predisposed to those health problems, the contaminants in the feed may prematurely trigger the events or even make them more pronounced at a young age.
The addition of mineral supplements which contain high levels of fluoride is not a conspiracy, but plain old ignorance – your pet is simply in the same category as a farm animal bred for slaughter – no one has ever adequately investigated the long-term effects of fluoride intake on domestic pets or its impact on specific breeds.
While they have known that certain breeds are genetically predisposed to hip dysplasia (osteoarthritis), osteosarcoma, kidney dysfunction, etc., no one has done research to determine if the high levels of fluoride in their feed may exacerbate or even be the catalyst in triggering these adverse events.
Hip dysplasia is actually a form of arthritis of the hip bones. Most of the dogs and cats that are genetically predisposed to dysplasia develop the condition before they are two years old. However, dysplasia may well be misdiagnosed and is actually skeletal fluorosis – but veterinarians have not looked at this possibility because they haven’t thought outside of the agricultural nutrition box.
The primary source of the fluoride in pet foods is from the added mineral supplements: defluorinated phosphate rock (which still retains some fluoride and is found in more expensive pet foods), raw soft phosphate rock, mono and tricalcium phosphate (made from a mixture of phosphoric acid and calcium carbonate). The less expensive the dog food, probably, the higher the fluoride levels because they use raw phosphate.
Raw phosphate, mainly because of it’s fluoride content (3% -4%) is most physically damaging animal mineral supplement because it is not processed and the least expensive. These facts have been known since the 1920s in early animal nutritional research of fluorine in animal nutrition.
Manufacturers are not required to list the fluoride of contaminant levels in pet food.
Could it be, that by simply changing the mineral supplements added to dog and cat foods, many of the maladies your pet may suffer from can be virtually eliminated or delayed until much later in life.
Visit this site http://www.dogpack.com/health/healthproblems.htm and do some of your own research by entering “fluoride†or “fluorine*†with the problem into an internet search.
From my research, I would suggest purchasing meat from the butcher, and if the animal needs mineral supplements – give them the same quality supplement that you would take yourself.
Also see: http://www.npwa.freeserve.co.uk/pollution.htm for more information about phosphate rock.
* In animal nutrition, ‘fluoride’ is more commonly referred to as ‘fluorine’.
SOURCE: http://www.manataka.org/page1854.html
By George Glasser, Press Officer/Water Quality Advisor
National Pure Water Association
http://www.npwa.freeserve.co.uk/fluoride.html
Unfortunately eye issues can be a hereditary problem in Shih Tzu and is, of course, something that breeders who truly care about the
breed will not perpetuate. A very good breeder will make certain that her line is registered with CERF, a national registry of dogs certified
free of heritable eye disease by members of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists.
The following articles on the American Shih Tzu Club website can provide a bit more information.
Ocular Disorders Proven Or Suspected To Be Hereditary In The Shih Tzu
By Denise M. Lindley, DVM
http://www.shihtzu.org/Articles/article.asp?ART_ID_NUM=3&menu=Articles
Dry Eye
By Cynthia Smith, DVM
http://www.shihtzu.org/Articles/article.asp?ART_ID_NUM=4&menu=Articles
Distichiasis In Shih Tzu
By Tracey King, DVM
http://www.shihtzu.org/Articles/article.asp?ART_ID_NUM=5&menu=Articles
Early Treatment for Corneal Ulcers Helps to Save Vision
http://www.shihtzu.org/Articles/article.asp?ART_ID_NUM=39&menu=Articles
DEAFNESS IN ALBINO ANIMALS
by ANDREA
* I’ve included an old post about white coats/associated health issues. I have/had two white cats, one of which was deaf. He had blue eyes, whereas my other one has
green eyes. The combination of white coat with blue eyes usually results in a deaf animal.
I’ve also included info on deaf dog training below. I am currently training two pit pups we believe to be deaf, at our shelter. They will be going into rescue along with their mother and
siblings in two weeks. I am teaching them hand signals for sit, and using a ‘thumbs up’ signal as a reward marker.
Andrea
Save a Life, Adopt a Pet!
http://www.icanimalcenter.org
http://www.pbrc.net
————————————————–
The gene that causes the white coat is a recessive one. In animals (and humans), recessive genes that cause white coat or white hair (partial or full albinism) are linked to other
recessive gene issues such as vision problems, partial or full deafness, and skin problems.
Here are some articles which help explain why animals with all or partial white coats may have associated health problems:
https://www.vetcentric.com/reference/displayFAQ.cfm?ARTICLE=165
http://www.lsu.edu/deafness/VetClinNA.htm
http://www.offa.org/deafgeninfo.html
————————————————–
Deaf dogs can present a training challenge. It is possible that some of her behavior is a result of not being able to receive auditory input.
Deaf dogs can still be trained, but it may take more time and you may have to do some reading on methods for working with deaf dogs. Here are some websites specifically about deaf dogs:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/deafdogs/
*Posted With Permission Of Author
Heartworm: A Realistic Look
Heartworm is of concern to all dog owners, and is a potentially serious, sometimes even fatal, disease. It is not, however, the unavoidable scourge that many vets and pharmaceutical companies would have us believe. If your dog is reasonably healthy, eating a SARF diet, is vaccine free, is not currently on any HW preventives or chemical flea and tick preventives, his immune system should be strong enough to fight off a heartworm infestation with none of the larvae reaching adulthood. In the event that some of the larvae should manage to get past your dog’s immune system defenses and survive to adulthood, it is still far from a death sentence. They will be much weakened, and the truly healthy dog will make a less hospitable host. Even at the adult stage, a healthy dog, possibly with some veterinary assistance, should be able to fight them off with no lasting ill effects to his health. Nor are the currently available cures more dangerous than the preventive, as the veterinary and pharmaceutical industries would have us believe
The mid and southern Atlantic states and the north-central states (where we live) have the most reported cases of heartworm. See the maps at http://cal.vet.upenn.edu/parasit/heartworm/hw_3.html
Note the tremendous increase in heartworm since the introduction of mass vaccinations (figure three). Mosquitoes are the only known vector of the infective stage of the heartworm larvae. In some parts of the country mosquitoes are a problem all year round, while in others this problem is limited to the warm months.
There are many sites out there on the internet with lots of “information†on heartworm. The problem with much of it is that it is either wrong or incomplete. Much of it is intended to mislead and frighten you. One site says simply that a mosquito bites an infected dog then bites another dog and infects it. While that, to some extent, in the most general of ways, is true, it is very misleading because the entire process is much more complicated and time consuming than that that explanation would lead one to believe. Another says that the mosquito injects the heartworm into your dog. This is simply false.
This is a compilation of information I’ve been collecting for a couple of years, including some tips on what you can do to protect your dog from heartworm. The heartworm has 5 separate larval stages referred to simply as L1, L2, L3, L4, and L5. The L5 is actually the young adult stage. The fully mature adult is often referred to as L6. In addition, heartworm also has two separate cycles, which, combined, make up the total lifecycle of the heartworm. One cycle takes place in a mosquito, and the other inside a dog or cat.
When a mosquito bites a dog harboring microfilariae, the mosquito ingests the L1 larvae, or microfilariae. This can only happen if the dog is also harboring the L6, or mature adult heartworm, because the microfilariae are the offspring of the adult heartworm. These microfilariae can live for up two years in the dog’s blood without causing any harm. They must, however, be taken up by a mosquito in order to develop any further. If they are not, they will simply die of old age and be passed out of the system. Once the mosquito ingests the microfilariae from the infected dog, the larvae must go through two stages of development, or molts, changing from L1 to L2 and from L2 to L3, while in the mosquitoes system before the mosquito can infect another dog. Once the L3 stage has been reached the larvae migrate to the mosquitoes mouth. It is only the L3 larvae which are capable of infecting another dog. This mosquito cycle takes anywhere from two weeks to about a month depending on the weather. The warmer the weather, the faster the development. If the larvae haven’t made the final development by then, they never will because the mosquito dies of old age at about 35 days, and along with the mosquito, die the larvae.
The importance of temperature: While the larvae are developing in the mosquito, development continues only when the temperature is above 64 degrees F. Further, the temperature MUST remain above 57 degrees Fahrenheit at all times, day and night during the entire mosquito cycle. If at any time during the development into the L3 stage, the temperature drops below 57 F, the development is aborted and must start over. Remember, it is only the L3 larvae which are capable of infesting your dog.
Now let’s say that a mosquito has bitten an infested dog; and that the temperature has remained above 57 degrees F for a minimum of 14 days since that bite; and that the mosquito bites your dog. Still, your dog is not infested because the L3 larvae are deposited in a tiny droplet of mosquito saliva adjacent to the bite, not injected into your dog by the mosquito–as many would have us believe. Providing the humidity and temperature are such that the droplet does not evaporate before they get the chance, the L3 larvae must swim through the saliva and into the hole left by the mosquito bite, thereby entering your dog’s system.
Once inside your dog, the L3 larvae must spend the next two weeks or so developing into the L4 larvae. During this period of time the larvae are living in the subcutaneous tissue just under the skin, not in the blood of the newly infected dog. The L4 will continue to live and develop in the subcutaneous tissue for the next two to three months, where they develop into the L5 stage. Once they make this development or molt into the L5 or young adult stage, they then leave the subcutaneous tissue and enter the blood stream. The L5 or young adults then migrate to the heart and pulmonary arteries where they make their final development into the L6 or mature, breeding,
adult stage and attach to the tissue of the heart and pulmonary arteries. Once there, approximately 5 to 7 months after entering the dog’s body, they will mate. This mating produces the microfilariae.
If the dog is not re-infested with L3 larvae from another bite from another infected mosquito, the adult heartworm will die of old age in about 2 years. The microfilaria will also die a natural death unless taken up by a mosquito.
The adult female mosquito, the only one which bites, usually lives little more than thirty days. Some species live only a couple of weeks. See,
http://www.sci-ctr.edu.sg/ScienceNet/cat_life/cat_zoo03865.html
For a great deal more information on the mosquito visit, http://www.mosquito.org/mosquito.html
When Is A Preventive Not A Preventive
The most popular heartworm “preventives,†Heartgard and Interceptor, are not really preventives at all; rather they act by killing the microfilariae, L3, and/or L4 larvae in an infested dog. Interceptor kills the L3s, and L4s, while Heartgard will kill the L4s and some of the youngest L5s. In other words they’re poisons, as are all of the other popular HW preventives. None of them kills the fully adult or L6 heartworms in the dosages prescribed for prevention. At higher doses, however, some of them will.
There are basically two standard tests for heartworm. One is called the antigen or occult test which tests for the antigens produced by the adult female heartworm. This test does not show the presence of microfilariae. The other is the microfilaria test. This test, of course, tests for microfilariae. Both Heartgard and Interceptor kill microfilariae. Therefore, if one’s dogs have been on either of these products, they will test negative for heartworm when given the microfilaria test, even though they may be infested with adult heartworms. It is not common, but it does happen. There have been many reports of dogs having very bad reactions to both Heartgard and Interceptor. Giving one’s dog doses of poison month after month to kill something which probably isn’t there anyway, doesn’t make an awful lot of sense to me.
In his book “Homeopathic Care For Cats and Dogsâ€, under the heading Heartworm, p332, Dr. Don Hamilton says: “This is a serious disease that primarily affects dogs… It can be treated homeopathically but this should be under the care of an experienced veterinarian. Heartworm preventives are generally very effective at protecting dogs against the disease….In dogs the “monthly†preventives are effective if given at six week intervals, and possibly even at seven- or eight week intervals…. The daily preventives are almost a thing of the past, but these are usually effective if given every other day. Although the preventive drugs are generally safe, they can initiate an autoimmune disease in susceptible animals…The homeopathic nosode that is made from heartworm larva is employed commonly as a preventive to avoid the drug side effects. Many question its effectiveness, though I have several clients who use the nosode (apparently successfully) with animals in heartworm endemic areas. Most animals have no trouble with heart worms. I do know of some cases where the nosode did not protect, however. I believe it does offer some protection, though it may be incomplete… If you decide to try the nosode, you must understand that its effectiveness is currently unknown.â€
To me this quote says pretty clearly that Dr. Hamilton has more faith in the drugs like Heartgard than he does in any homeopathic approach to prevention.
On the other hand, Dr Martin Goldstein, in his book, “The Nature Of Animal Healing†pp, 220, 221, 223, says: “Granted, heartworm is a serious condition… A few caveats are in order, however. Only a small percentage of dogs who get heartworm die of it, especially if they’re routinely tested twice yearly for early detection. Even in untreated dogs, after a period of uncomfortable symptoms, the adult worms die… The chances of a microfilaria-infected mosquito biting your dog the first time are slim. Of it happening to the same dog twice? Very slim…Early in my career, I saw and treated hundreds of cases of heartworm disease, most with routine medication, yet witnessed only three deaths (the last was in 1979). By comparison, we’re seeing, cancer kill dogs on a daily basis. To my mind, the likelihood that toxicity from heartworm pills is contributing to the tremendous amount of immune suppression now occurring, especially in cases of liver disease and cancer, is far greater and more immediate than the threat of the disease they’re meant to prevent… As a precaution, I recommend that all dogs be tested twice a year for heartworm. For clients who insist on a more active form of prevention, I suggest doses of black walnut given two to three times a week, as I’ve actually reversed clinical heartworm with it…†Obviously two very differing opinions on the safety of the common heartworm preventive drugs and the efficacy of alternative treatments from two very respected authors and healers.
Other alternative preventives I’ve run across are: Soaking an old towel in equal parts of the essential oils of pennyroyal and citronella; tearing it into pieces and hanging it in various places around one’s dog runs or property is said to make an excellent repellent. Citronella, rose geranium (plumarosa), eucalyptus, pennyroyal, rosemary, rue, and wormwood are the strongest herbal repellents available, not only for mosquitoes, but for fleas, and ticks as well. Rubbing fresh leaves of pennyroyal, rosemary, eucalyptus, lavender, and/or wormwood on one’s dog’s coat and/or one’s own skin is also said to be a good temporary repellent.
At Bulloved Bulldogs, as with all things, our first line of defense is diet. We include approximately one to two cloves of garlic per day in everybody’s food. Garlic is a natural mosquito repellent; just the aroma will keep them at bay. As such, it is a genuine heartworm preventive. If the mosquito never bites your dog your dog cannot contract heartworm. We also spray the runs and surrounding grounds and the deck with a commercial garlic-based spray to help reinforce the effects of the garlic we feed our Bulldogs.
If, in addition to the above, if you are more comfortable using an applied repellent, here a couple of suggestions for safe, natural repellents you can make at home. Fill a small spray bottle with the following. 2 drops each, rosemary and lavender oil * 3 drops of citronella oil 20 drops or so of rose geranium (plumarosa) oil 1/2 ounce or one tablespoonful of alcohol based tincture of bay 1/2 ounce or one tablespoonful alcohol based green black-walnut hull tincture 8 ounces of distilled water *You may, if you prefer, use 3 to 4 drops of one or the other. This can be sprayed directly on one’s dogs every time they go out,or one’s self for that matter. Spraying it on things like lawn or deck furniture can also be very effective. This is a variation I devised from a recipe included in “The Encyclopedia Of Natural Pet Care,†by CJ Puotinen.
An alternative to the above combination is the following formula and protocol originally posted to The Holistic Bulldogger by Carol Anne Rayson, Mississauga, Ontario. Carol Anne calls this †The Mother of all Homemade Natural Flea and Bug Repellantsâ€. Place approximately one cup of dried calendula (wild marigold) blossoms (available at most health food stores or herb shops) in a one quart glass container with lid; a canning jar would be ideal. Cover with naturally fermented raw apple cider vinegar. Be sure to add enough ACV that it covers the dried blossoms plus about an additional inch of liquid. Cover tightly and let stand undisturbed for two weeks. At the end of the two week period strain the liquid through several layers of cheesecloth. Rebottle the strained infusion and store in the refrigerator for future use. Don’t worry if there are small particles of the calendula blossoms in the liquid. When you are ready to use the infusion (when mosquito and tick season arrives) mix a small quantity of the infused ACV with ten parts of spring water in a spray bottle, and return the original container of the undiluted calendula-ACV infusion to the refrigerator for later use. This final dilution can then be sprayed directly onto your Bulldogs, although I would recommend avoiding the eyes. They don’t seem to like getting it in their eyes. Carol Anne also claims “A 50/50 solution of the original infusion and spring water also works wonders on hot-spots and is a good general skin tonic.
The garlic is so effective that we have relatively little use for these final lines of defense. However, rain will wash away the spray that has been sprayed on the premises; therefore, when sitting out of a late evening following several days of rain, we take the added precaution of spraying ourselves and our Bulldogs with one of the two mixtures above. Once the rains have passed we re-spray the runs, grounds, and deck with the garlic spray. I am convinced that, providing one’s dogs are fed a species appropriate raw food diet; that they are not vaccinated; they are not treated with flea and tick preventives; and are not currently being treated with drugs such as antibiotics, our dogs are at greater risk from the poisons used to kill/prevent heartworms than they are from any infestation of heartworm. Remember, the best protection against any infection or infestation is a healthy immune system. If your dog is healthy and has a truly healthy immune system, even if it is bitten by a mosquito carrying the L3 larvae, it will most likely be able to fight off the invasion without ever developing any symptoms.
For a quite different view of the subject as well as some interesting additional information go to http://www.io.com/~tittle/ivc/1996/internet-vet.3.17.html
By Langsley T Russell
CANINE PARVOVIRUS
Parvovirus is a HIGHLY CONTAGIOUS virus that attacks the intestines and causes sloughing of the inner layers of the intestine. The most common
symptoms of this disease (the “intestinal formâ€) are vomiting and diarrhea. Another less common form, the “cardiac formâ€, occurs in very young pups
(less than 8 weeks of age) and attacks the heart muscle, often resulting in sudden death.
Parvovirus is contagious to dogs only—not to cats or people. Any age, breed, or sex of dog could be affected by parvovirus. However, infection with
parvovirus does not automatically mean illness. Several factors such as age, environment, stress, parasites, and general health status of each individual
dog infected could affect the severity of the disease. The degree of illness could range from very mild to unapparent to very severe, often resulting in
death. The disease is usually more severe in young dogs (less than 6 months of age), old dogs, Rottweilers, and Dobermans. The younger and smaller the
dog, the greater the chance that it will not recover.
Parvovirus is resistant to extremes of temperature (i.e., it survives freezing and extreme heat) and is unharmed by detergents, alcohol, and common
disinfectants. Direct transmission occurs when an infected dog comes in contact with a healthy dog. The virus is found in heavy concentration in the
infected dog’s stool. Because dogs will usually sniff where another dog has eliminated, this fecal-oral transmission is the most common method of
transmission. The virus particles can be easily spread by hands, shoes, clothing, or other inanimate objects (fomites)—this is an indirect source of
transmission.
As many as 30 billion parvovirus particles can be shed from the intestines of an infected dog in every ounce of stool. The highest concentration of virus in
the stool is seen when the infected dog is showing signs of illness. A dog can, however, be a source of infection to other dogs without it having observable
signs of illness (the disease may be incubating). Transmission can occur for at least 3 weeks after a dog becomes infected with the virus. Chronic
“carriers†are not known to exist as in other viral diseases. Parvovirus in the environment can infect susceptible dogs for as long as 6 months once shed
in the stool.
Clinical signs include vomiting, fever, loss of appetite, depression, and bloody diarrhea with a very foul odor. Infected animals rapidly dehydrate and
severe cases progress to shock and death. Early, vigorous treatment of illness caused by canine parvovirus infection can save lives.
Cardiac form (less than 8 weeks of age):
Sudden death
Crying, difficulty breathing, gasping for breath
Extreme depression
Weakness
Unwillingness to nurse
Irregular heartbeat
Intestinal form (any age dog affected, but more severe in puppies):
Depression
Loss of appetite
Fever (usually above 103F)
Vomiting with or without blood
Diarrhea with or without blood (more serious if blood present)
Low white blood cell count (due to immunosuppression)
Treatment is aimed at maintaining the normal body composition and preventing secondary bacterial infection. Because this is a virus, there is NO
CURE. Death from parvovirus results from dehydration, overwhelming secondary bacterial infection, blood loss from intestinal hemorrhage, or heart
attack from invasion of the heart muscle by the virus.
Early FLUID THERAPY is the most important factor in treating dogs with parvovirus infection. The body is normally about 80% water. Life is NOT
possible when 12-15% of the normal body fluids are lost. Intravenous fluids both rehydrate the body and nourish the sick dog.
Additional treatment includes prevention of secondary bacterial infection and drugs to control vomiting and diarrhea. No food or water is given while the
dog is vomiting. Repeated laboratory tests are often necessary to monitor your pet’s white blood cell count and state of hydration.
HOSPITALIZATION enables us to provide the best medicine and is the best way to achieve success. There is NO GUARANTEE, even with
hospitalization, that your pet will survive. With most dogs, there is at least a 70% survival rate. Very small (young) puppies, Rottweilers, and Dobermans
usually only have a 30-50% chance of survival. Length of treatment depends on the severity of disease. Most dogs have to stay hospitalized for at least 2-4
days, but may require treatment for as long as a week. Dogs that recover from parvo are often weak, making them even more susceptible to other
diseases, such as distemper. Dogs that recover from parvo continue to spread the virus in the feces for a month or longer.
Prevention/Control of parvovirus by sanitation measures alone is extremely difficult because the virus is such a resistant, hardy organism and because it is
so easily spread. Contact with other dogs,and especially their stool, should be minimized. Clorox diluted one part to 30 parts water (4 oz Clorox in 1 gallon of
water) has been effective in disinfecting inanimate objects such as clothing, floors, kennels, etc. However, it is impractical, if not impossible, to disinfect
public streets, parks, etc. Isolation of infected dogs is another method of control, moderately effective. Both of these measures will help reduce the
amount of contagious virus in the environment, but only a full series of vaccinations, with appropriate booster intervals, will help to control the source
of infection, the contagious shedding dog.
Guidelines for young puppies:
1. Do not take the puppy to the front yard, park, for a walk around the block, or to pet stores. These are all places where infected dogs have been or
presently are.
2. Only have the puppy around adult dogs that YOU KNOW are current on vaccinations. There should be no contact with stray dogs or dogs that you are
not sure of.
3. Do not let the puppy be exposed to any other puppies. These pups could be incubating the disease (and therefore be contagious) without showing signs
of illness.
4. Always wash your hands after handling any dog.
Vaccination is the most effective preventive measure for canine parvovirus disease. A properly immunized dog will have circulating antibodies in the
blood that will destroy parvovirus following exposure. Dogs remain HIGHLY SUSCEPTIBLE to parvo until 2-4 weeks after the last injection of the
immunization series.
The Role of Maternal Antibody in Puppy Immunization
Maternal antibodies are antibodies against viruses which are passed from the mother to the puppies through the “first milk†or colostrum. They provide the
puppy with an immediate temporary or “passive†immunity. The mother obtains these antibodies from prior vaccination or by natural exposure to
parvovirus. However, maternal antibody is a two-edged sword; it protects the puppy against disease early in life, but it also blocks active immunization (the
puppy’s immune response to vaccinations). In the case of parvovirus, maternal antibody can interfere with vaccination for as long as 14 to 16 weeks
of age in some pups. A refractory period can exist in some pups where very low, almost undetectable levels of maternal antibody will inhibit the vaccination
process but will NOT PREVENT parvovirus infection. Since the level of maternal antbody varies from puppy to puppy, IT IS IMPORTANT TO BEGIN
VACCINATION AT AN EARLY AGE AND REPEAT EVERY 3-4 WEEKS UNTIL THE PUPPY IS AT LEAST 16-18 WEEKS OLD.
Home Care after Recovery
( ) Provide a clean, quiet environment and enforced rest during the recovery period. Do not encourage active play.
( ) Keep your pet isolated from other dogs for at least _____ weeks.
( ) Give all of the medication as directed. Notify the doctor if you are unable to do so.
( ) A bland diet is necessary when your pet is re-introduced to solid food. Feed the following ________ food in small amounts spaced out 4-6 times throughout the day.
( ) You can resume feeding the normal diet in _____ days. On the first day mix ½ normal food with ½ _________ food.
( ) Recheck in ________ days.
Notify the Doctor if the Following Occur
Your dog’s stool contains blood, or the diarrhea returns.
You cannot medicate your dog as instructed.
Your dog vomits or is reluctant to eat.
There is a change in your dog’s general health.
Your dog does not drink water.
Note: This article is provided by Claws & Paws Veterinary Hospital® for informational purposes only.
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